Catch a wave!
I think every Hawaiian man, woman and child surfs.
Okay, maybe not every single one, but I saw toddlers and grandpas alongside teenagers and moms catching the waves.
Because the waves break so far from the shore, I didn’t take too many pictures of surfers……
But I had so much fun photographing the skimboarders!!
Well…….let me fill you in!
Skimboarding is a sport similar to surfing but it takes place near the shore.
The skimboarder stands about twenty feet from the ocean and waits for a wave. Then he runs towards it with his skimboard in hand. Upon reaching the wet sand, he drops the board and jumps onto it as quickly as possible.
Once on the board, the skimmer then (hopefully) glides out into the ocean toward the oncoming wave, banks off of it, and rides it back into shore.
I’ll tell you, watching it just about wore me out….
“Surfing is such an amazing concept. You’re taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, ‘I’m gonna ride you!’ And a lot of times Nature says, ‘No you’re not!’ and crashes you to the bottom.”